Captain Louis Renault’s line in Casablanca, “Everybody comes to Rick's”, could well be applied to The Foreign Correspondents Club of Hong Kong from its founding in the fifties after the Chinese communists seized power until the 1980s when the colony’s China watching cachet began to fade. The FCC’s most glamorous period was when it was located in a magnificent Midlevels mansion with a large lawn overlooking the harbour. This allowed for outdoor functions – including dancing on a wooden floor laid over the lawn. Lunching on the balcony in 1954, with a view of the harbour unobscured by high-rise apartments or office towers, on the same day I took the photographs of the island and harbour shown here, I decided Hong Kong was my preferred place of residence in Asia.
Hong Kong harbour photographed from Midlevels in 1954.

Hong Kong Island photographed from Star Ferry in 1954

Unfortunately, the mansion was only leased and the owners decided to sell it and build an apartment block. The FCC had three more homes during the years I was based in the Crown Colony and served two terms as club president. But it remained a magnet for visitors and sitting in the bar or restaurant, you could often see familiar faces of foreign political leaders, movie actors, senior military officers, editors, authors and entertainers, who had stopped off in Hong Kong on their way to other Asian cities.
The Vietnam War and the tumult in China made Hong Kong an important regional centre for the media. Many correspondents covering the war made Hong Kong their base. At the same time, China watching from Hong Kong was a major industry. The colony was a key outpost for monitoring events in China from the fifties through to the eighties, a decade in which foreign journalists began to find it a little less difficult to visit the Middle Kingdom. (The 1970s, after US President Richard Nixon’s visit, saw an easing of restrictions on journalists but it was still not easy to obtain a visa.)
Folk Night At FCC.


“We’re the China Watchers of Hong Kong
We’re never, never, never, never wrong.
We may sometimes not be right
But it’s just an oversight
And we’ll certainly correct it ere too long.”
This is the chorus of a song I wrote during the Cultural Revolution, poking fun at myself and my colleagues, as a little light relief from the hours spent pouring over the content of provincial radio stations, central government pronouncements and interviews with people who could cross the border barred to us. I sang it with a folk group set up with other instrument-playing journalists and a guitar-virtuoso diplomat, who were fans of Dylan, Peter, Paul and Mary and Woody Guthrie, to entertain members of The Foreign Correspondents Club of Hong Kong. (The three lads above are Len Port, Ian Stewart and Alan Thomas.)
I wrote my first articles about China from Hong Kong in 1954, when, as a young Reuter correspondent, I flew to the British Crown Colony from Japan to stand in for the resident correspondent, Graham Jenkins, when he took a couple of months sick leave. On the day of my arrival in Hong Kong, I snapped the harbour photo above on the Star Ferry with my new Canon camera and the Midlevels shot from the FCC.
One of my earliest stories was a report on the British Labour Party delegation which visited China that year and departed via the British Crown Colony. I met them at the border and talked to members on the train to Hong Kong. In those days visitors departing from China travelled on a Chinese train from Canton (now Guangzhou) to the border, where they walked across a bridge and boarded a British train at the Lowu station. Members of the delegation were naively enthusiastic about Mao’s China but provided little real information. They seemed to think their most significant finding was that there were “no flies in China”.
I was posted to Indonesia in 1955 and returned to Hong Kong in November, 1957, with the aim of writing a book and surviving by freelancing (having quit Reuters). I married Truus The Tiang Nio, whom I had met in Indonesia, that same month. I wrote China stories for a year for various outlets before heading off to Indonesia for another spell in Jakarta. In late 1959 I went back to Hong Kong, where I was hired by The New York Times. For the next 14 years I reported on Mao Tse-tung’s China, with all its amazing developments, including The Great Leap Forward and The Cultural Revolution. (I had a break from Chinese politics for two to three months each year when I travelled to every East Asian country from Japan to Burma to gather material for articles for The New York Times’ year-end Asian economic survey.)
I repeatedly applied for visas to enter China but to no avail. I had a New Zealand passport but as a correspondent for The New York Times was treated like an American. I finally crossed the border in 1972 in the wake of Nixon’s entry - 18 years after my first visit to the border to meet the Labour Party delegation.
The opening to China engineered by Nixon and Kissinger was warmly welcomed by me and other China watchers. But I was surprised by his bold move. On the two occasions, I had met him before he became President he had not struck me as showing little leadership potential. But my view of him was not as jaundiced as American colleagues.
A short time after his ignominious departure from the White House, an American colleague whom I had not seen for some years came up to me in the bar of the FCC and said: “If it hadn’t been for you, you bastard, we wouldn’t have had to suffer that miserable skunk Nixon defiling the office of President of the United States.”
He was only half joking.
It turned out he was referring to an incident when Nixon went to South Korea in 1953 as Vice President and visited several US military units by helicopter, with a press entourage of which I was a member as the Reuter representative. Japan and Korea were my first overseas postings as a foreign correspondent.
Panmunjom, Korea, 1953 - UN Correspondents with Indian soldiers. Back row: Jack Sampson, Ed Hymoff, INS, Ian Stewart, Reuters; Front row: Frank Jordan, UPI (later NBC), Forrest "Woody" Edwards, AP.

At the last the stop, where there was a phone link to Japan, I insisted on calling the Reuter office in Tokyo. The line was - as always - atrocious and it took some time for me to dictate my story, much to the agitation of the US Army press liaison officer.
He decided to send the rest of the media pack back to Seoul according to his schedule and keep one helicopter waiting for me. However, I was still talking to Tokyo when Nixon was ready to return to the South Korean capital and the helicopter assigned to me was blocking the path of the one on which he had been travelling.
So he was escorted to the first chopper in line and I, when I finally emerged, was given the vice-presidential machine.
On the way to Seoul, flying over mined paddy fields, the engine ceased functioning, and we plunged downwards. The engine gave a cough that kept the rotors spinning sufficiently to prevent a major crash but we landed heavily enough to destroy the undercarriage. Fortunately we did not land on a mine. We were picked up by a rescue helicopter and returned to Seoul.
My colleague reckoned that if Nixon had flown to Seoul in the defective chopper, together with his minders, it might have veered slightly and hit a mine or struck the ground hard enough to write off the future President of the United States.
After witnessing Nixon’s less-than-inspiring discourse with the troops in Korea and coming away unimpressed from a one-on-one interview with him in Hong Kong during a global tour he made in the mid-1960s before his successful bid for the White House, I always wondered how on earth Americans came to make him their President.
Nixon apart, my initiation as a foreign correspondent in Japan and Korea in 1953 and 1954 was an experience that confirmed for me that I had made the correct career choice when I accepted an offer to join Reuters. And lunching at the FCC in Hong Kong demonstrated that not all a correspondents’ bases need to be hardship posts. I had begun a great adventure that would take me subsequently to every country in East Asia, including Indonesia, the home of my future wife.
Being greeted by President Sukarno, whom I met more informally and talked to on many occasions, at a palace function, in 1956 or 1957.

A grand gaggle of prominent foreign correspondents meet President Sukarno in his palace in Jakarta in 1955. Those whose names I remember are: Back row, first from left, Hans Martinot, a Dutch correspondent renowned for his coverage of the Indonesians' struggle for independence and at that time editor of the Aneta press agency; second, Ian Stewart, Reuters; fourth, Bernard Kalb, The New York Times; sixth, Anthony Lawrence, BBC. The woman in the front row is Dorothy Russell, standing in for her husband, UPI correspondent Jack, who was ill, while the correspondent to her left, between two Indonesian officials, is John Ridley, from London's Daily Telegraph. Any jogs to my memory concerning the names of the others would be welcome.(I just discovered, after posting this pic that Jack Russell died in Japan in 2007. Hans Martinot and John Ridley are also among old friends now deceased. Anthony Lawrence celebrated his 100th birthday in Hong Kong in August, 2012!)
